If you have done or are in the process of doing a restoration your story and pictures can go in this section. The better you structure your story the easier it is to put up on the website, (the less editing that needs to take place).
This story was submitted by Kevin McMahon.
MG Y restoration
Following are some notes on problems I have encountered.
My solutions are ambit and meant to be improved upon by continuous update.
FUEL FILTER IN TANK.
The fine gauze filter is on the end of the fuel line at the lowest point of the tank (the indent).
This line is riveted and soldered into the tank and the design is of questionable merit.
Having persevered with carbie cleaner and low pressure compressed air, I decided that Frank Mountford had the right idea. I opened the filler and blew high pressure air back down the fuel line. This of course destroys the filter but I had lost my patience.
The rear hydraulic hose could not be sourced by our trusty Perth Brake Parts. The hose they could supply needs modification at both ends.
Two or three packing washers at the rear end seems to do the job of sealing but I will confirm this later! The front of the hose has to be drilled out as the fixed line has the pipe protruding from the acorn. A new securing nut also has to be used as the thread cannot be matched.
The pedal box design is also of questionable merit. The bolts securing the Master Cylinder should have had captive nuts and the mechanical stop light switch denies access.
Remove stop light switch. If originality is not of concern, fit a pressure switch alternative where the two rear fixed lines join. Having tried unsuccessfully to glue nuts on the inside of the box, I am using long tweezers to insert the bolts inside the box.
To convert to spoked wheels, the stud configuration seems to be non-standard (more questionable merit).
Drill new holes in conversion hubs and fit smaller wheel nuts.